Bengalis are less divided by caste or economic standing than they are by being Bangaal or Ghoti. There is no SOBO vs Suberb or NCR vs New Delhi positioning in people’s minds in Kolkata. But there is this refugee from East Bengal even if the family has crossed borders before 1947 versus the homegrown gentry from West Bengal classification which creeps into every introduction. The two aquatic stalwarts who gained brand position to keep the war flag furling are Hilsa fish alias Ilish maach and Tiger prawns alias Chingri maach. Bangaals eat Ilish; Ghotis patronise Chingri. Because the banter in the 20th century is innocuous and because the Bengali person always overeats, everyone eats everything equally delightedly namely Ilish, Chingri, Paapda, Rui, Bhetki and more…..
Ilish is a seasonal fish. The first recipe which is tried out with the first coveted catch or buy of the year is Ilish-er Tel which is like a flavoured chilly oil. This is mixed with a small portion of rice and this constitutes the first few mouthfuls of the majestic fish, one of the fishy celebrations of the year.
Ma refused to be defeated by seasonality. Why should she have maacher-tel only for three months. The Ilish appears in June end and disappears around September. She concocted a Chingri-er tel coined for convenience as chilly prawn oil.
My food word for this recipe would be quirky.
When you go shopping look for:
Tiger prawns
Mustard oil
Red chilly powder
Salt
Green chillies
The recipe would be:
Marinate about a kg of Tiger prawns with its head intact with salt, one and a half tsp red chilly powder and one tsp turmeric powder. Keep it like this for at least an hour and a half.
You will need about six odd fresh green chillies. Wash and slit them vertically through the centre. In about four to five tbsp mustard oil once warmed throw in the green chillies. Because they have been slit, they will not sputter and throw up sharp hot seeds. Keep the heat low. In a minute add two tsp salt, half tsp turmeric powder and two tsp red chilly powder. Within a minute pop in all the prawns and fry in medium heat on both sides for three minutes each. Keep a lid on while you do this. If you feel the oil has got used up, warm another tbsp of hot mustard oil and pour it in. In another minute you are ready. Taste for salt. Mix with white rice and have gold red rice with crunchy spicy prawn.
Ma cooks really well, she makes many prawn variations. But this one has completely won my husband’s heart and his stomach. Now even he who barely cooks has learnt to make this.
Adding one last anecdote. My mom is a Bangaal and my husband is a Ghoti. I told you, the love of fish brings the two close. Not a Bengali for nothing.
